Repair of Dishwasher / Geschirr- Spüler Matura
Öko silentic 600
I'm not a dishwasher repair technician, & Not offering to
fix your machine (but
if you have the same model & problem, you now know how to
fix it yourself).
Fresh water would not go in.
Both solenoids on input pipe were working OK. Water goes
through both in series for extra safety. Presumably the 2
solenoids were electrically wired in series,
( Late 2006, it went wrong again, one of the coils
was cracked from overheating, the other not, but the 2
wires were open circuit. A new Wasser Einlauf Ventil cost
me 50 Euro (just the screw on bit, down to the bit that
clamps on the hose. The new replacement has just one
solenoid, but now also has some magnetic safety thing
- The outer hose is for air, so if a pipe leaks, pressure
builds in outer pipe & is detected & solenoids
- Water goes up the common input of the nylon semi
translucent distributor, & gets stuck at the calcified
valve you can't see, just to right of 4th picture (yes I
forgot to photo that bit).
- Water then goes back down other 2 large pipes, mixed via
the orange water switch, which is settable for hard, medium
or soft water; water then exits the nylon container through
to the salt container or input filter.
- I spent a long time decoding the circuit diagram, trying
to figure out the Germanic 2 letter acronyms for the
electro-technical devices, which are perhaps common to other
devices too, so I'll add a table of them too, below. Turned
out there was nothing wrong with the electrics though.
- To remove the nylon I had to cut the steel of the side
body at the base. Look on one of the pictures of the whole
machine, & you'll see on the green strip, that 4 cuts
exist. OK you may get away with just the outermost 2 cuts,
but I didn't realise how very large the plastic was going to
be that I had to remove, so I started small. Note no cut is
near where the door tensioner connects.
- Pulled out over half a meter of plastic with 7 pipes
- Note you do Not need to remove the Salt container with
Grey top, (shown removed in a photo) I just removed it too
while searching for problem.
- Poured in kettle de-calcifier,
- Pressured it with a `lilo' type ( plastic air bed) pump
(goggles on eyes of course)
- Finally one drip came through ! Hooray ! Why for just one
drip ? ' Cos one drip's enough, it etched the calcium a bit,
2nd drip was faster, finally gravity was enough,
- I kept heating liquid in microwave & through again
& again, finally the stuck valve was operational.
- Sundry bits of bent wire were also used to poke the
valve, which was of orange plastic strip format, of 180
degrees & about 10 centimetre diameter, as said, not
shown in any picture. A half metre long tool for use
extracting lost bolts from car engines etc was used to
support bent wire etc. Though not essential if you don't have
Another time, the power switched failed, (horrible stink of
burning plastic). I unscrewed stainless steel door from
white fascia, so I hacked a new hole, *started by burning a
hole through plastic fascia with Weller 140 W solder gun -
ventilate well to avoid presumably toxic fumes) file hole
square, push in a new switch (16 A 240 V push fit in to
front, glue as hole alignement not perfect, bend clips on
switch to avoid metal of frame, put rubber insulating boots
on old wires to give extra insulation, the new wires I used
had `piggy back' double connectors, wired as per picture,
still using original neon, & wires also permanently
enabling old switch as on, so save figuring how that
connects into rest of switches in the block.
I've a taken an extended bunch of photos, now in a sub
directory, click on any one for larger versions.
- You need a bunch of new Jubilee clips for the pipes, as
all the clips are of the cheap "use once & throw away"
type. Test in operation for any leaks. If a a screwed jubilee
clip can rotate on rubber or nylon form, it's too loose.
- The big hole in the side of the stainless stell wash
compartment is Not just to let steam out & allow access
to the orange hardness mixer tap. It alaso allows water into
the machine, so if you reassemble this badly it will leak a
lot of water onto floor. 1st try I fit it by feel & it
leaked. (I was ill so hadt bothered to grovel down to look)
2nd try, I removed rubber seal, fitted that to stainless
steel, then slid in the nylon on top, & very carefully
fitted all together.
To retension the door tensioner.
- This is a phosphor bronze strip about 10 cm
- 2 man job.
- You do Not want it springing while you work, so
- Lots of sharp hooks, & a big spring under much
tension, so keep finger clear, use needle point pliers to
- Put a long indicator ie screwdriver on top of side of
machine to show 2nd person what angle to pull at.
- Use a long wire loop one wire each side of hook,
through hole in frame, on to spring, to pull spring.
Other end of wire loop can be rope, to back of pulling
human & allow space, also if pulling human wobbles,
it has less effect on alignment then. robe can go through
eg a screwdriver handle or round wood for good grip.
- My phosphor bronze door tensioner clips were set 2nd
- Option A: pre thread (before spring is put back ) a
string from last hook on phosphor bronze, through length
of spring up toward door, out of end of spring & back
toward pulling area. Purpose is to guide hooks over
spring end, but it didn't work well (hard to get phosphor
bronze fitting inside the spring), so option B was used :
Much Easier !
- Option B: Pre load the phosphor bronze into the
spring on hook position number 2. (No light string
necessary). Get 2nd human to pull steadily progressively
more (not jerking), & guide (using need point / radio
pliers, Not fingers!) clip end of phosphor bronze out
though chassis, have puller more slightly toward front of
machine & slightly less pull, & clip
- If you ever plan to move the whole unit again, eg if
using a trolley on right side in a house removal: a
stiffening strut needs to be added to inside of base, which
should be drilled & then screwed to the strut,
(preferably not pop riveted in case you take it apart
- Spray paint with zinc undercoat & white topcoat,
where the paint has flaked off after folding back the
Acronyms - German wiring diagram (Schaltpläne)
Not in alphabetic order, but in left to right across circuit.
diagram. & guessed not official as no key on diagram.
- TBL: Terminator Blocke L?
- DS: Druck Schalter
- GPL2: ? ? Lampe
- DR: Druck Regler
- DD: Druck Detector
- PS: Personnen Schalter
- MS: Mess Schalter Measuring Switch.
- TIS: Timer Integriert Schalter
- DPM: Dreck? Pumpe Motor - small output dirty water
- SPM: Spül Pumpe Motor (Umwalz pumpe) - Large washing
- TH55C: Thermostat 55 Celsius
- TH65C: Thermostat 65 Celsius
- THS2: Thermostat
- TH40C: Thermostat 40 Celsius
- TB: Terminator Blocke
- WS: Wasser Schalter
- TH-H: Thermisch Halterung
- WVS: Wasser Ventil
- WV1: Wasser Ventil
- WV2: Wasser Ventil
- HEW: Heizungs Element Wasser
- RR: - Density measurer for salt container
Circuit diagrams & Wiring Diagram